Outside our bedroom window we can hear the ocean, and in the morning are woken by hungry sea gulls eating mussels and crabs that washed up overnight. This morning a large fishing boat grounded itself and at 7am we heard the men calling directions to get it back to sea.
The island is a world heritage site with narrow wooden shingled churches dotting every town on the coast. Chiloe, a place with rich ancient tradition, is now wholly catholocised. In the sheet metal cathedral of Castro, the capital, the arch angel michael is crushing a serpent monster of local folklore, which is to now represent satan.
The unique but similar churches were built by German monks who were missionaries to the island natives. As is the Christian custom of transition from one belief to another, old folkloric monsters are often converted to represent satanic beings. The same was done to Pan. These churches, though heavily Catholic, still show distinct signs of spiritual transition. From the star painted cathedral roof to guide nature worship to a new direction, to said angel stomping mythical creatures.
Still the people of Chiloe hold to certain traditions, and watch the horizon for the ancient ghost pirate ship on foggy days.
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